Introduction (
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This page is the product of my effort to understand the geologic history of Washington. I am not a
geologist but I took a few courses in college and have since then enjoyed trying to figure the
stories rocks and their formations can tell. The information I've compiled here is at best
second-hand, synthesizing what I've been able to find online with a focus on the landforms and rock
formations I've observed around the state.
Here are some websites and other resources which I have found helpful.
I've organized my findings as a timeline, in part because I'm always curious about how old things
are, be they mountains or rocks, forests or trees or even individual birds. A timeline can be
inconvenient for finding information about a particular landform or roadcut but for the big picture
it provides a helpful frame.
Holocene (the past 11,000 years) - floodplains, headlands, spits, benches and landslides (
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Although in the gological timeframe 11,000 years is a blink of an eye, it has been long enough for
for post-glacial processes to significantly alter some areas of the Washington landscape. Changes
during the Holocene are generally more obvious west of the Cascades, where surface geology tends to
consist of sediment rather than bedrock. Small streams incised narrow gullies while larger rivers
forged level floodplains bounded by steep banks in and through sediments left behind by the glacier,
particularly in the Puget lowlands. The effects of wave erosion of those same sediments along the
shores of Puget Sound are more obvious. Dungeness Spit, formed in just the past 5,000 years from
gravel and sand washed out of the bluffs to the west, is an impressive example.
The more powerful waves along the outer coast, particularly along the Olympic Peninsula, have carved
steep headlands and sea stacks and eroded flat benches out of compacted sediments and older
sedimentary rocks. Studies have estimated that the benches, which form at mean low tide level, have
expanded at a rate of as much as 10-20 meters per century since achievement of a rough equilibrium
between isostatic and tectonic uplift of the land and rising sea level.
(
Riedel 2021+)
The benches, carved into the steeply-dipping sedimentary rocks along the north coast of the
peninsula, particularly intrigue me. I wonder if the processes that form them reflect on a small
scale the formation of the continental shelves, though I'm guessing that the latter may be created
more by deposition than by erosion.
Landslides and volcanic eruptions have made locally significant changes to the Washington landscape.
These include:
1980 Mount St Helens eruption
~1460 Bonneville landslide
5.6 Ka Osceola Mudflow between Enumclaw west to Tacoma and northwest to Tukwila
Statewide, the biggest and most obvious change in the landcape would have to be the changes to
the plant communities from those adapted to the cold dry conditions at the edge of the ice to
those dominant in the state until white settlers arrived - temperate rain forest on the west side
and dry coniferous forest, sagebrush steppe and prairie on the east side. The story of those
changes is considerably more complex than I've implied here. For one thing plant communities don't
migrate intact; instead they are dynamically reconstituted in any given environmental niche as
individual species migrate into suitable habitat.
(
Whitlock 1992+)
Pleistocene (0.1 - 2.6 Ma) - drumlins, coulees, terraces, scablands, volcanoes and loess (
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Much of the current topography of Washington developed during the Pleistocene, thanks primarily to the
multiple
episodes of continental glaciation+
which define the period. During the most recent episode, the Fraser, the Cordilleran ice
sheet covered the northern half of the state for as much as 10,000 years and extended as far south
as Spokane and Wenatchee on the east side of the Cascades and the Olympia area in the Puget Sound
Basin. Receding between 15,000 and 11,000 years ago, the ice left numerous topographic features in
its wake, including elongated north-south trending sediment ridges called drumlins in Seattle and
almost everywhere else in
the Puget Lowlands+, and broad outwash channels south of Olympia.
East of the Cascades the
legacy of the ice sheet+ is even more obvious. The Channeled
Scablands of the Columbia Basin reveal the pathways and power of the Missoula floods which
repeatedly scoured eastern Washington from Spokane to Pasco. The Grand Coulee (including Dry Falls)
and other coulees in north central Washington testify to the power of floods from, and redirection
of the Columbia River by, the Cordilleran and earlier ice sheets. From Conconully on the eastern
edge of the North Cascades to Newport on the Idaho border, the same ice sheets carved a series of
valleys aligned from north to south through the highlands between the Canadian border and the
Columbia Plateau.
Lining the Columbia and Okanogan River valleys are prominent terraces composed of sand, gravel and
larger stones which washed off the surrounding highlands (and from on, in and under the glacier
itself). Some formed as material accumulated in gaps between the ice and the steep valley sides.
Others originated as deltas deposited in temporary lakes dammed up by the ice. Perched at multiple
levels above the current valley floor, the terraces record the progressive wasting away of the
tongues of ice which lingered in the valleys (I assume) after the thinner ice over the highlands had
melted.
Ice was not the only factor transforming the Washington landscape during the Pleistocene. About 50
miles off the current Washington coast the San Juan plate of oceanic crust has been sliding eastward
under the continental crust of western Washington for more than 40 million years. The five major
Cascade
volcanoes+ are made of magma melted from the descending slab. None of the existing peaks are
older than one million years, and within another million they will likely be eroded down to their
roots like their predecessors. Among those are the peaks of the Goat Rocks, remnants of a range of
volcanoes active earlier in the Pleistocene. At least one was as large as Mount Hood.
Another Pleistocene phenomenon, particularly in eastern Washington, was dust. In a pattern repeated
at the close of each ice age, outwash streams carried sand and silt down to the lower Columbia Basin
where wind picked it up, carried it northeast and deposited it in the Palouse to add to hills of loess
(rhymes with puss, according to some authorities). The hills are not dunes; they are shaped
at least partly by erosion, including seasonal accumulation and melting of snow on their north and
northeast faces, and they are not homogeneous but are composed of multiple deposits capped by soil
horizons developed during interglacial periods over the past 1.5+ million years. Since the advent of
intensive cultivation 140 years ago, some areas of the Palouse have lost as much as a meter of the top,
most fertile, soil horizon. (
Veseth 1985+)
In Washington the rainshadow effects continued to intensify with the continuing, and probably accelerating,
uplift of the Cascades+, important evidence for which is the
formation of subsoil layers of Calcium Carbonate (Calcrete) across the Columbia basin.
(
Cooley 2023+)
The range isn't rising uniformly; uplift of the North Cascades be as much 15,000 feet, three
times that of the southern Washington Cascades. Concurrent with the Cascades uplift has been the
development of the Yakima fold belt, the series of east-west trending ridges between the Kittitas
valley and the Oregon border extending east from the Cascades to Othello and Walla Walla. These are
anticlinal folds with thrust faults at the base of their north slopes. Holocene earthquakes suggest
the uplift and compression is continuing. Both are related somehow to the ongoing subduction of the
Juan de Fuca plate off the coast. I'm curious as to whether the half-dozen or so ridges all rose at
once, or did the folds start in the south and replicate to the north, or vice versa?
Pliocene (5.3 - 2.6 Ma) (
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At the beginning of the Pliocene the climate, both local and continental, was warmer and more humid with less seasonal
variation than at present though early in the period a shift to the current summer-dry climate began. The contrast between eastern and western Washington climate and
vegetation developed as the Cascade range, augmented from around 4 Ma by volcanoes, rose high enough
to cause a rainshadow. The Pliocene Cascades, unaffected yet by alpine glaciation, probably
resembled the Willapa Hills of southwest Washington - narrow forested ridges dissected by narrow
stream valleys - shaped by stream erosion, chemical weathering and mass wasting.
I tend to imagine the Columbia Basin in the early Pliocene prior to significant uplift of the Saddle
Mountains as a broad flat plain of nearly-naked basalt but it wasn't so. Rivers flowed south and
west over the basalt flows both during and after their emplacement, depositing hundreds of feet of
braidchannel, low-gradient riverbed, floodplain, delta and lakebed sediments from the east edge of
the rising Cascades to the west edge of the Palouse slope. The primary source was the ancestral
Columbia River, which flowed for part of this time through Yakima and Goldendale, then was dammed by
the uplift of the Horse Heaven Hills to form a lake spanning the Pasco basin before finding (cutting?)
a passage through the ridge at Wallula Gap. The sediments accumulated without interruption from 8.5 to
3.6 Ma to form the fosil-rich
Ringold Formation+ as well as correlated formations in the Horse Heaven Hills,
Umatilla Basin and farther west.
(
Lindsey 1996+)
Summer-dry climate with eastside rainshadow
Miocene (23 - 5.3 Ma) (
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28-25 Ma Cascades just low hills west of current crest w/ remains of older volcanoes - Tieton, Fife Pks?, Ohanepecosh (28 Ma?)
20 Ma Early to mid-Miocene climate was moist, warm-temperate and similar east and west
Mid-Miocene: Basalt replaced by andesite, folding formed basins (Puget, Chehalis, Napavine, Portland?) followed by early Cascades uplift ()
18 Ma Olympic Peninsula uplift began
(
WA-DNR How the Olympics Formed+)
17-12 Ma Most Cascades volcanism paused during CRB eruptions.
16.3-15.6 Ma Columbia River Basalts, esp very large Grande Ronde, later Saddle Mountain, flowed down
Columbia, also a few smaller gaps to the north?
Petrified tree species include >50% conifers (Spruce, Fir, Douglas Fir, Yew, Bald Cypress) but include
Oak, Maple, Birch, Elm, Sweetgum, Tupelo, Sycamore.
(
Mustoe 2001+)
15 Ma Disappearance of broadleaf deciduous trees from fossil record indicates shift to drier climate
(
Mustoe 2001+)
12-8.5 Ma Uplift of Hog Ranch/Naneum Ridge anticline forced the Columbia River east from the east edge of the ancestral Cascades west
to its modern location, resulting in Ringold deposition.
(
Lindsey 1996+)
7-4 Ma Modern Cascade uplift began
Oligocene (34 - 23 Ma) (
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Paleofloras from Blakely Fm near Seattle and Gumboot Mt near St Helens contain temperate genera - maple, walnut, hickory, witch hazel
(
Pigg 2002+)
Eocene (56 - 34 Ma) (
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Pacific Northwest 55 Mya
55-50 Ma Around 55 Mya the northward migration of the Kula-Farallon spreading ridge had reached the
Pacific Northwest, by which time the Siletzia large igneous province has begun to form. The
Siletzia and Crescent terranes now form the basement of the Pacific Northwest from the California
border to Vancouver Island and from the Cascades to the coast. Composition is mostly marine
tholeitic (spreading ridge) basalt interbedded or underlain, perhaps due to thrust faulting, by
contintinental sediment. The best data suggest ages ranging from 56 Mya in the south to ~48 Ma at
the north end, with accretion to North America, possibly along the trace of the Olympic-Wallowa
lineament, around 50 Mya.
The source of the massive amount of basalt in Siletzia is uncertain, perhaps the Yellowstone hotspot
and /or slab windows derived from subduction of a spreading ridge, but there is general agreement
that Siletzia has rotated ~75 degrees clockwise around a northern pivot point into its current
location. Accretion of Siletzia coincided with a change from compressional to extensional
tectonics, a change from subduction to transform movement between the Kula/Farallon and the North
American plates, and more locally, perhaps also the strike-slip displacement between 48 and 42 Mya
on the Straight Creek fault. (Zentner various,
Wikipedia+,
Image from
Burke Museum+)
52-44 Ma Around 52-51 the Challis volcanic activity begins from southern BC southeast across
northern Washington to south-central Idaho, associated with extension and dikes in not just
Washington but also Oregon and into Idaho. The slab window theory has North America overrunning the
east-west spreading ridge between the Kula and Farallon plates along with portions of Siletzia.
Slab windows over the subducting ridge may initially contributed to Siletzia and subsequently fed
the Challis volcanoes and intrusions. By 44 mya the spreading ridge had migrated farther north,
Siletzia has accreted and subduction of the Farallon plate has resumed to initiate the ancient
Cascade Arc.
The
Challis Arc+ theory describes Challis vulcanism as a volcanic arc derived from
the subduction of the Kula plate under the northern edge of the Columbia Embayment. As portrayed in
the image above, the Kula plate splits and the eastern fragment subducts while the western fragment
initiates transform movemen northward, dragging part of North America with it. (Zentner various,
Tepper 2023+,
Burke Museum+)
52-42 Ma Chuckanut/Swauk formations are fluvial sand, conglomerate and shale derived from Mt Stuart
and mountains east to Idaho, correlated to Puget Group, Roslyn Fm, offset beginning 48 Ma by the
Straight Creek fault. Early members contain fossils of subtropical flora - palms, tree ferns, swamp
trees and tropical vines.
(
Mustoe 2001+)
Fossils from late Chuckanut Fm indicate a cooler, warm temperate climate
(
Mustoe 2002+)
Coal formed in Chuckanut, Puget Group, Skookumchuck and Roslyn formations of volcaniclastic and
fluvial sedimentary deposits. Rank (~hardness) increases with proximity to subsequently-emplaced
Cascades plutons.
(
Walsh 1983+)
49-48 Ma Stonerose Fossil beds deposited in a deep lake filled by progressively coarser sediment in the Republic graben.
(
Mustoe 2015+)
Pollen studies from Eocene Okanogan sediments suggest an upland temperate mixed forest locally dominated by
Pseudolarix+, Abies, Alnus,
Ulmus, Betula as well as Walnut, Beech and Metasequoiah.
(
Moss 2025+)
40 Ma Tukwila formation fluvial and deltaic sediments and volcanics on coastal plain by rivers originating in Idaho.
Underlies Tiger Mountain continental and marginal sediments, all part of Puget Group. Volcanics correlated to Northcraft Fm.
Molluscan fauna similar to Cowlitz Fm, mostly shallow marine in tropical or subtropical climate.
(
Nesbitt 1998+)
36 Ma The last remnant of the Farallon plate becomes the Juan de Fuca plate after the other remnants are subducted under
Alaska, British Columbia and Washington. Shale and turbidites scraped off the subducting Juan de Fuca plate were intensely
deformed, thrust under and accreted to the Crescent terrane of Siletzia to form the core of the Olympics. Subduction-driven
and perhaps isostatic uplift elevated the Olympic Peninsula above sea level around 18 Mya. Rapid erosion, currently as much
as 1 km/million years, stripped off the Crescent basalt exposing the accreted sediments, metamorphosed into the slate
and phyllite of the Ozette terrane of the central Olympic Mountains.
(
WA-DNR How the Olympics Formed+,
Juan da Fuca plate+)
Paleocene (56 - 66 Ma) (
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Cretaceous (66 - 145 Ma) (
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Jurassic (145 - 201 Ma) (
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Triassic (201 - 252 Ma) (
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References (
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(
Allstädt 2021+)
Allstädt, F. J.; Koutsodendris, A.; Appel, E.; Rösler, W.; Reichgelt, T.; Kaboth-Bahr, S.; Prokopenko, A. A.; Pross, J., 2021,
Late Pliocene to early Pleistocene climate dynamics in western North America based on a new pollen record from paleo-Lake Idaho:
Palaeobiodiversity and Palaeoenvironments v 101, p 177-195
(
Cooley 2023+)
Cooley, S., 2023, Calcrete Growth in Alluvial Lowlands - New Findings in Eastern Washington State: Cooley Geoscience (blog) March 2023
(
Lindsey 1996+)
Lindsey, K. A., 1996, The Miocene to Pliocene Ringold Formation and Associated Deposits of the Ancestral Columbia
River System, South-central Washington and North-central Oregon: Washington DNR Open-File Report 96-8
(
Millar 1996+)
Millar, C. I., 1996, Tertiary Vegetation History: U.S. Geological Survey Digital Data Series DDS-43
(
Miller 2020+)
Hasenburg, C., 2020, Washington State: Land of Geologic Complexity (based on the February 14, 2020 lecture by Dr. Marli Miller): GSOC Newsletter March 2020
(
Moe 2025+)
Moe, R. L., 2025, The Geologic History of the Chehalis Forearc Basin, Washington State, USA: Dissertations and
Theses. Paper 6892
(
Moss 2025+)
Moss, P. T.; Greenwood, D. R.; Archibald, S. B., 2002, Regional and local vegetation community dynamics of the
Eocene Okanagan Highlands (British Columbia – Washington State) from palynology: Canadian Journal of Earth
Sciences v 42, no 5, Abstract
(
Mustoe 2001+)
Mustoe, G. E., 2001, Washington’s Fossil Forests: Washington Geology v 29, no 1/2, p 2-20
(
Mustoe 2002+)
Mustoe, G. E., 2002, Hydrangea Fossils from the Early Tertiary Chuckanut Formation: Washington Geology, v 30, no 3/4, p 17-20
(
Mustoe 2015+)
Mustoe, G. E., 2015, Geologic History of Eocene Stonerose Fossil Beds, Republic, Washington, USA: Geosciences v 5, no 3, p 243-263
(
Nesbitt 1998+)
Nesbitt, E. A., 1998, Marine Fauna of the Middle Eocene Tukwila Formation, King County: Washington Geology v 26, no 1, p 13-19
(
Pigg 2002+)
Pigg, K. B.; Wehr, W. C., 2002, Tertiary Flowers, Fruits, and Seeds of Washington State and Adjacent Areas—Part III:
Washington Geology v 30, no 3/4, p 3-16
(
Pearson 1977+)
Pearson, R. D.; Obradovic, J. D, 1977, Eocene Rocks in Northeast Washington - Radiometric Ages and Correlation: Geological Survey Bulletin 1433
(
Riedel 2021+)
Riedel, J.; Sarrantoni, S.; Dorsch, S., 2021, Geomorphology of Coastal Olympic National Park: Natural Resource Report NPS/NCCN/NRR—2021/2260
(
Roberts 1958+)
Roberts, A. E., 1958, Geology and Coal Resources of the Toledo Castle Rock District Cowlitz and Lewis Counties, Washington: GSA Bulletin 1062
(
Sweeney 2007+)
Sweeney, M. R.; Gaylord, D. R.; Busacca, A.J., 2007, Evolution of Eureka Flat: A dust-producing engine of the Palouse loess, USA: Quaternary International v 162-163, p 76-96
(
Tepper 2023+)
Tepper, J. H.; Loewen, M. W.; Caulfield, L. M.; Davidson, P. C.; Ruthenberg, K. L.; Blakely, S. W.F.; Knudsen, D. F.J.F.;
Black, D. F.; Nelson, B. K.; Asmerom, Y., 2023, Petrology and geochronology of Cretaceous–Eocene plutonic rocks in
northeastern Washington, USA: Crustal thickening, slab rollback, and origin of the Challis episode: GSA Bulletin v 136, no 1/2, p 725-740
(
Veseth 1985+)
Veseth, R., 1985, Erosion Impacts on the Palouse Misunderstood: PNW Conservation Tillage Handbook Ch 1
(
Walsh 1983+)
Walsh, T. J.; Phillips, W. M., 1983, Rank of Eocene Coals in Western and Central Washington State: A Reflection
of Cascade Plutonism?: Washington DNR Open-File Report 83-16
(
Whitlock 1992+)
Whitlock, C., 1992, Vegetational and Climatic History of the Pacific Northwest during the Last 20,000 Years:
Implications for Understanding Present-day Biodiversity: The Northwest Environmental Journal v8, p 5-28
(
Yancey 2013+)
Yancey, T. E.; Mustoe, G. E.; Leopold E. B.; Heizler, M. T., 2013, Mudflow Disturbance in Latest Miocene Forests
in Lewis County, Washington: Palaios v 28, p 343-358
(
Blue Marble 2025+)